We’re not going to do better writing about Sven Enderle and Florian Moll than their US importer Stephen Bitterolf, so you might as well start here. We’ll add that we’ve also been infected by the viral buzz surrounding what may as well be the Kraftwerk of the wine world. Their pinot noir is really, really good. Their whites are fascinating, and so far pretty cheap! We didn’t get much of the wine, so don’t hesitate if you’re interest is piqued.
10% off all wines from Enderle & Moll through January!
When I was 17 years old, I spent most of my time watching MTV and attempting to noodle my way through Jimmy Page guitar solos. When Juan Antonio Ponce was 17 years old, he was already a certified enologist.
After a few years working as Telmo Rodriguez’s right hand man at Remelluri in Rioja, where he learned the ins and outs of biodynamics, Ponce returned to his family’s 22 hectare farm in the Manchuela DO. Manchuela lies a bit inland from the Valencian coast, between La Mancha to the west, Utiel-Requeña to the east, and Jumilla to the south. With the courage of a 23-year-old, Ponce boldly broke his family’s pattern of selling the harvest of their native bobal vines, in favor of bottling estate wine. In relatively few vintages, his work has already earned him recognition as the leader of Manchuela, and the title “King of Bobal”. But can he play “Heartbreaker“?
Monthly Pass holders may already be familiar with “Clos Lojen”, the entry point to Ponce’s wines, and a surprisingly gulpable version of bobal. “La Casilla” is a bottling of 80-year-old vine bobal from the Estrecha area, and might be the most immensely impactful wine in the shop right now, though it somehow maintains structural balance. “Reto” is made from the under-appreciated albilla variety, which carries a graceful honied peach note that reminded us of some young Vouvray. “Buena Pinta” is the only red made without bobal, highlighting instead another local variety, moravia agria, whose inherent freshness and aromatic complexity are bolstered in this case with the addition of around 40% garnacha.
10% off all four wines from Bodegas Ponce throughout December
About an hour’s drive north of the Langhe lies the Canavese countryside. Compared to Barolo and its overwhelming vistas of vineyards stretching toward the horizon, Cieck’s vineyards in the comune of San Giorgio Canavese give a feeling of bleak, beautiful solitude. Octogenarian Remo Falconieri still supervises all aspects of his thirty-year-old estate, along with his daughter Lia and right hand man Domenico Caretto. The most significant variety here is erbaluce, which produces a light, elegant white wine, either still or sparkling. The trio of reds produced by Cieck succinctly illustrate the range of what is possible for red wine in Canavese: a regionally traditional barbera-based field blend, a distinctive version of the noble nebbiolo, and perhaps the only example in pure of neretto (full name neretto di San Giorgio), which was once a much more prolific variety.
As wine professionals, we often try to attach the concept of authenticity to a wine or winery (read: “real wine”, etc.). This may be code for a sort of manifested tie to something necessarily old and perhaps fallen out or favor or currency; or the gentle melancholy associated with the rediscovery of some long-lost, once-revered object. The wines of Cieck are this authentic.
We’re pleased to offer these wines for the first time in Massachusetts, and throughout the month of November at 10% off our normal shelf price.