Uwe Schiefer began assembling his estate in 1990, when vineyards were available on the cheap in Sud Burgenland. He astutely saw potential in the schist-laden slopes of Eisenberg, where the variety blaufränkisch seems to have found its most profound resonance. Schiefer has risen to the top echelon of this region’s producers in recent years, and with his “less is more” winemaking philosophy, any rise in quality must come from what’s happening in the vineyard. To that end, and with a foundation in organic viticulture, he has been moving toward biodynamics for several years now.
We found him at a booth at the ProWein trade fair in Düsseldorf a few weeks ago pouring his entire range of reds, and finishing with a strangely beguiling gewürztraminer that underwent a long skin maceration. While this might seem at odds with “less is more”, what was interesting about the wine was it retention of varietal character and typicity, perhaps in spite of the overt expression of the “orange wine” technique. In any case, it’s at least an indicator that Schiefer isn’t content to rest on his laurels.
We happily feature Schiefer wines this month, including three distinctive reds made of blaufränkisch and a joyously refreshing welschriesling that’s just begging for a little warm sunshine. All four wines are available with a 10% discount throughout the month of April.